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March 29, 2026
After Arco and Lake Garda, we pointed the camper van east and headed to Lago d'Iseo. If Garda is the famous older sibling that everyone knows, Iseo is the quieter one that locals keep to themselves. Smaller, calmer, less crowded — and in my opinion, absolutely wonderful.
I had never seen a lake quite like it. Garda had impressed me with its sheer size. But Iseo felt more intimate somehow — mountains rising steeply from the water, tiny villages clinging to the shores, and right in the middle of it all, an island. A proper island, rising dramatically from the water. I stared at it from our pitch and felt immediately curious.
But first — a word about our camping spot.
We stayed at Camping Vela, and the experience was... different from Arco. The campsite was largely taken up by permanent pitches — the kind where people have been coming back for years and have made themselves very much at home. We barely found a spot.
But when we did find one, it turned out to be right next to the water — though I should mention, the pitch itself was very small with hardly any room to move around — I spent a significant portion of our time there simply sitting and watching the lake. For a compact explorer like me, that was perfectly fine.
🐾Small dog notes:🐾 If your dog is more active and needs space to stretch their legs properly, this campsite might not be the best fit.
The highlight of our time at Lago d'Iseo was without question Monte Isola — and it deserves every word I'm about to give it.
Monte Isola is the largest lake island in Europe. No cars. No traffic. Just villages, olive groves, fishing nets drying in the sun, and paths that wind around the island with the lake always visible below. We took the ferry from Sulzano — a five minute crossing — and stepped off into a completely different world.
But first.. I need to talk about a MUZZLE.
You cannot board the ferry to Monte Isola without a muzzle for your dog. Not wearing it — just having it. It needs to be in your possession. This is a firm rule, and the ticket booth is well aware that most visitors arrive without one.
We arrived without one.
A muzzle was available for purchase at the ticket booth at a price that suggested they were aware of the situation. We bought it, boarded the ferry, and I took it off right away.
🐾Small dog notes:🐾 Pack a muzzle before you travel in Italy. Even if your dog is small, even if your dog is charming, even if your dog has never once been a problem for anyone.
Distance: ~9 km island loop | Time: 2.5–3 hours at a relaxed pace | Difficulty: Easy | Terrain: Paved paths, village streets, some gentle climbs | Leash: Yes | How to get there: Ferry from Sulzano (5 minutes)
But enough about the muzzle drama — let's talk about the island!
The island loop connects a series of charming villages along the shoreline. Each one has its own character — colourful boats, quiet harbours, cats on windowsills, the smell of lake fish and olive oil. We spent a few hours wandering, stopping whenever something caught our eye, which was often.
🐾Small dog notes:🐾 The island has a lot of cats. A lot. If your dog has strong feelings about cats like I do — keep the leash short and your human alert.
Distance: ~6 km return (same way) or ~10 km loop | Time: 2.5–3 hours | Difficulty: Moderate to hard | Terrain: Paved paths to rocky paths | Leash: Yes | How to get there: Ferry from Sulzano (5 minutes)
At the island's highest point — 600 metres above sea level — stands the Sanctuary of Madonna della Ceriola, with 360-degree views of the lake and surrounding mountains. You can either climb up and return the same way (~6 km) or continue as a loop around the island (~10 km). We didn't attempt this one we wanted to keep things easy on this trip. But it's firmly on the list for next time.
🐾Small dog notes:🐾 Make sure your dog is comfortable with sustained elevation — some sections are steep and rocky. If in doubt, a dog backpack is worth considering and there is no shame in it!
We kept our visit focused on Monte Isola, but the lake has more to offer — especially for walkers. These two are firmly on the list for next time.
Distance: Variable — can be walked in sections | Time: Half to full day depending on section | Difficulty: Moderate | Terrain: Ancient mule tracks, stone paths, some steep climbs | Leash: Yes
An ancient Roman road that runs along the eastern shore of the lake, connecting a series of villages from Pilzone to Pisogne. Panoramic views of Monte Isola and the lake throughout. The full trail is too long, but it can be broken into sections and combined with local trains along the shore — making it a very flexible option for a day out. We haven't walked this one yet, but it's high on the list for next time.
Distance: ~5 km loop | Time: 1.5–2 hours | Difficulty: Easy | Terrain: Flat wooden walkways and embankments | Leash: Yes
South of Iseo town, this protected wetland area is a completely different kind of walk — pools, reed beds, wooden walkways over the water. Wonderful for a gentle stroll and excellent for birdwatching. A lovely, calm option for a quieter half morning, and very easy on small paws.
Lago d'Iseo felt like a secret — the kind of place you want to tell everyone about and also quietly keep to yourself.
Woof, Leeloo