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March 3, 2026
Every family has those places they return to. For Masha and Kris, that place was Arco and Lake Garda — a corner of northern Italy they had fallen in love with long before I came along. So when it was time for my first proper adventure outside Germany, the choice was easy. They wanted to show me what they loved. And honestly? I understood immediately why they loved it.
Italy was my first real long trip. We rented a camper van and headed south — but that's a whole story of its own, one we'll tell properly another time. Van life with a Westie, how to prep your dog for a long drive, what to pack and what to leave behind — all of that deserves its own post. For now, let's talk about where we went and what we'd recommend.
Spoiler: we're already planning to go back.
We chose Arco over Garda town deliberately — it's smaller, quieter, and much less crowded. For a dog on their first big trip, that matters. A calmer environment means more time to adjust, more space to breathe, and a lot less overwhelm. We stayed at Agricamp Altogarda — a small, wonderful green campsite with a view straight up to the castle and grass so fresh and thick that I basically never wanted to leave it.
The town itself is extremely dog friendly. We walked into actual shops. With me inside them. Italians, in our experience, are wonderfully relaxed about dogs in a way that makes you feel immediately welcome.
One warning: the church bells in Arco's main square are loud. The kind of loud that makes you question your life choices. None of us liked them — and I was definitely the most vocal about it. This is a feature of almost every historic European town centre, so if your dog is sensitive to sudden loud sounds, just be aware and time your square visits accordingly.
🐾Dog friendly tip:🐾 Arco has a Bau Beach and dog running area on the river Sarca, accessible from the Via Pomerio cycling path. A great spot to let your dog stretch their legs properly after a long drive.
Distance: ~3–4 km return including town walk | Time: 2–3 hours with stops | Difficulty: Easy | Terrain: Paved streets, rocky path | Leash: Recommended on the upper rocky section
The first hike was the perfect introduction to mountain walking.
Arco Castle sits dramatically on a rocky outcrop directly above the town, and the trail up winds through olive groves with increasingly spectacular views of the valley below. From town, the climb takes about 30 minutes — but there's no reason to rush. We combined it with a proper wander through the historic centre, stopped for a coffee, and took our time on the way up. The whole outing stretched into a very happy few hours.
The views from the castle terrace are extraordinary — the town below, the valley stretching toward the lake, mountains in every direction. For a dog who had spent most of her life looking up at Berlin apartment buildings, this felt significant.
🐾Small dog notes:🐾 The path is rocky in the upper section — perfectly manageable for small paws, but take it at your own pace. The upper part has no shade, so an early morning start is wise in warmer months. Bring water.
Distance: ~15 km round trip | Time: 3.5–4 hours (count the whole day) | Difficulty: Easy | Terrain: Flat riverside path and lakeside promenade | Leash: Yes — shared cycling path
One of our favourite days was a longer walk from Arco, following a green strip along the river Sarca — flat, easy, and genuinely beautiful. The route takes you all the way to Garda town, where the river meets the lake. I approached the water carefully, sniffed it with great scientific thoroughness, and reported back: very large, very wet, not for me. But walking along it — and exploring the charming streets, stopping at cafes with outdoor terraces, experiencing the kind of Italian dog friendliness that makes you want to move there permanently — that I could do all day.
This is a cycling path, so keep your dog close and stay aware of bikes. On the way back we followed the road through the vineyards, which turned out to be a lovely alternative — quieter, scenic, and a completely different mood from the river path. Count on a full day for this one.
🐾Small dog notes:🐾 Fully flat and easy on small paws. The cycling path means you need to stay alert, but it's well-maintained and wide enough for everyone. May is ideal timing: warm but not hot, and the lakeside path has some shaded sections.
Distance: Variable — we walked about 4–5 km return | Time: ~2.5-3 hours | Difficulty: Easy | Terrain: Wide gravel path | Leash: Yes
If the castle trail was our warm-up, the Strada del Ponale was the main event.
This historic road — carved into the cliffside above Lake Garda in the 19th century — is one of the most spectacular walks in the region. The path follows the western shore of the lake from Riva del Garda, cut directly into the rock face, with the water far below and the mountains rising above. We walked out for about an hour and turned back when we felt like it. There's no obligation to go all the way — the views are magnificent from the very start.
Lake Garda itself deserves a mention. It is enormous. Coming from Berlin's lakes, nothing quite prepares you for the scale of it. I studied it carefully from the trail. I barked at it once, just to establish the situation. It did not respond, which I found respectful.
🐾Small dog notes:🐾 The surface is large gravel, which is not the most comfortable for sensitive paws — we were careful not to overdo the distance and checked paws regularly. Also be aware of cyclists — the path is shared, and bikes can appear from both directions. Dogs on leash.
Distance: ~5 km loop | Time: ~3 hours | Difficulty: Easy | Terrain: Forest paths, mule tracks, some rocky sections | Leash: Recommended
This one we'd suggest as a bonus trail for anyone spending a few days around Arco — and it's a hidden gem.
The Bosco Caproni trail starts near Massone, just outside Arco, and winds through what is reportedly the northernmost holm oak woodland in Europe. The forest is lush, shaded, and full of fascinating smells — olive trees, old stone walls, and the kind of undergrowth that a terrier finds completely irresistible. The trail also passes ancient oolite quarries and WWI trenches, which makes it genuinely interesting for the humans too.
With an elevation gain of around 150–220 metres and mostly gentle paths, it's very manageable for small dogs. The terrain is varied — mule tracks, forest floor, some rocky sections — but nothing demanding. One of the most pleasant walks in the area for a dog who likes to sniff and explore at a relaxed pace.
🐾Small dog notes:🐾 Good shade throughout makes this a good option even on warmer days. The forest floor is much kinder on paws than the Ponale gravel. A lovely alternative if you want something quieter and more sheltered.
Distance: ~10 km round trip | Time: 3.5-4 hours | Difficulty: Easy to moderate | Terrain: Forest path with 400 iron steps on open-grate staircases | Leash: Yes
One of the most famous trails in the area and genuinely breathtaking — the path hugs the cliffside above Lake Garda with views that have earned it the nickname "balcony over Lake Garda." We haven't done this one yet — but it's firmly on our list for when we return. Masha has already done her research (as she does), so I'm including it here because it's too good not to mention. I was still young on this trip, and those iron staircases — three sets, around 400 open-grate steps bolted into the rock face above the lake — made Masha and Kris nervous on my behalf.
When we go back, we're planning to bring a dog backpack for the staircase sections — that way I get the views without the stress. Worth considering if your dog is on the more cautious side too.
There are many more trails around Arco we haven't explored yet — but I'll be honest, this was our first big adventure and we kept it easy. When we go back, there will be more to share.
And we did go further — after Arco we drove on to Lago d'Iseo, which is a whole other story. That one is coming too. Stay tuned.
Woof, Leeloo